VANITY FAIR

No 433

September 1996

Features

VALLEY OF THE DOLES The marriage of Bob and Elizabeth Dole is a delicate balance of two great Washington powers. But as the Doles gamble everything on Bob's final run for the White House, Gail Sheehy reveals the growing pressures straining their partnership. 279

MILAN QUARTET Karl Lagerfeld and Cathy Horyn spotlight four couture maestros—Versace, Armani, Prada, and Valentino— all opening New York stores this fall. 286

HOLLYWOOD PRINCESS As Alicia Silverstone films Excess Baggage in Vancouver and trains for her role as Batgirl, Matt Tymauer checks in with the 19-year-old ingenue and her two permanent sidekicks. Photographs by Herb Ritts. 288

THE FIRST SUPERMODEL David Daniel remembers Lisa Fonssagrives, as Vendome Press publishes a book of portraits of the fashion icon by the likes of Avedon, Man Ray, and Fonssagrives's husband, Irving Penn. 294

MoMA'S BOY Grappling with a palatial new house, a major new MoMA exhibition, and a controversial new biography, Jasper Johns gives Edmund White an abstract of his creative tensions. Photographs by Bruce Weber. 296

SEX, LIES, AND SADDLE SHOES Advance word on Inventing the Abbotts has David Kamp hoping for a trend and Peggy Sirota lining up the movie's alluring young cast. 306

DEATH BY DESIGN In Paris, Maureen Orth investigates the sudden death of Wallis Montana, the beautiful former model and wife of decadent designer Claude Montana. Photograph by Michel Comte. 310

ROGER & ME Tom Wolfe and Nigel Parry salute Roger Straus, co-founder of Farrar, Straus & Giroux, in celebration of the publishing house's semicentennial. 316

YOUNG LOVE In an excerpt from his new book, All Too Human: The Love Story of Jack and Jackie Kennedy, Edward Klein sheds intimate light on the turbulent courtship between the dashing, nouveau riche congressman and high society's most exquisite catch. 318

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Columns

THE EGGHEADS AND I Christopher Hitchens takes the Mensa challenge, straight up with an olive, while the high-I.Q. group turns 50 . . 138

WOMAN O' WAR As much courted CNN correspondent Christiane Amanpour lands an unprecedented contract working for both CNN and CBS's 60 Minutes, Leslie Bennetts profiles the crisis-driven 38-year-old news star. Photograph by Pascal Chevallier. 146

REMAINS OF THE DIA The quietly influential Dia Center for the Arts is reeling from a coup d'etat against chairman Ashton Hawkins. Bob Colacello finds the wealthy, powerful de Menil family on both sides of the putsch. Photographs by Jonathan Becker. 173

THE CHANDLER MYSTERY With the Los Angeles Times in peril, David Margolick tracks down Otis Chandler, who made his family's paper one of the best in the nation and then vanished into the Oregon desert. Photographs by Art Streiber. 208

MCNAMARA'S SHADOW David Halberstam chronicles Paul Hendrickson's nightmarish, decade-long struggle with his book on Robert McNamara—and the stunning outcome. 236

Vanities

MY FAIRUZA LADY The Magazine Journalism Aptitude Test; V.F. Camera's summer daze; Queen Victoria's secret; George Wayne tangos with Regine, Queen of the Night. 253

Et Cetera

EDITOR'S LETTER: State of the unions. 68

CONTRIBUTORS . 78

LETTERS: All the Cage. 120

CREDITS. 355

PLANETARIUM: Family ties are binding, Virgo. 356

SOCIAL STUDY: Dan Rather anchors the Proust Questionnaire . . 358