LUAU

In 1950s Los Angeles, midcentury modernism collided with tiki primitivism, and a bevy of tiki bars and restaurants-Luau, Tiki Ti, Trader Vic's, Bali Hai—became favored watering holes. This month, Andrew Hewitt, of L.A. hot spot II Sole, opens the doors to the new Luau, in Beverly Hills, a contemporary version of the iconic favorite. The Balinese-inspired decor features wood, stone, and water elements, in addition to Buddha relics and authentic Turkish lanterns. "We wanted to create a Zen-like retreat," says designer Loree Rodkin. Chef Makoto Tanaka, who served as the original chef for Wolfgang Puck's Chinois on Main, crafted the Pacific Rim-fusion menu, which includes dishes such as roasted lamb encrusted with macadamia nuts and served with peanut sauce, braised pork spring rolls, and a pupu platter with Wagyu meatballs, spicy crispy chicken, and a short-rib satay, among other delights. And for added kitsch factor, you can drink cocktails—made by Jeff Berry, who recovered many of the original Luau concoctions—out of fresh, hollowed pineapple and coconut shells. It's a modern-day Shangri-la. (369 Bedford Dr., Beverly Hills) —P.H.

P.H.