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ALL THAT JAZZ

The Roaring '20s are officially upon us, bringing with them heady abandon. This season's rising stars show off opulence with a modern twist

March 2020 RACHEL SYME, BRITT HENNEMUTH DANIEL JACKSON SAMIRA NASR
Features
ALL THAT JAZZ

The Roaring '20s are officially upon us, bringing with them heady abandon. This season's rising stars show off opulence with a modern twist

March 2020 RACHEL SYME, BRITT HENNEMUTH DANIEL JACKSON SAMIRA NASR

In the fall of 1931, F. Scott Fitzgerald and his wife, Zelda, returned to the United States after spending much of the '20s abroad.They found the country much changed. Having left the Champagne-soaked festivities early, by the time they returned, all that was left was an empty dance hall with glitter on the floor. They'd been so busy careering around Europe in a dizzying cloud of cocksure charisma—and personal drama—that they didn't notice the moment things began to unravel. After the stock market plummeted in 1929, the Fitzgeralds were on holiday in North Africa. As Fitzgerald later wrote, "We heard a dull distant crash which echoed to the farthest wastes of the desert." But they kept drinking, seeing no need to sail home. The crash echoed through their lives nonetheless. That year, Zelda's mental health declined, and she checked into the Swiss clinic Les Rives de Prangins, where she scribbled letters about spending her days "writing soggy words in the rain and feeling dank inside." Fitzgerald, for his part, was unable to finish his next novel. When they finally arrived home on a steamer, Fitzgerald wrote, they found that several of their most buoyant friends had also begun to sink. "Somebody had blundered," he wrote in an essay that year. "And the most expensive orgy in history was over."

It is never easy to pinpoint the exact moment that a party begins to wind down. But, as Fitzgerald noted looking back on the Jazz Age, the party is usually over before anyone notices. It is ending all the time, from the moment someone kicks off their first heel. Decadence—that state of ecstatic, almost sublime decay—is really just opulence with an expiration date. Fitzgerald wrote that friends were living far beyond their means, and they knew it, and they simply didn't care. "Even when you were broke you didn't worry about money, because it was in such profusion around you," he wrote. "Now once more the belt is tight and we summon the proper expression of horror as we look back at our wasted youth."

We are living in the '20s again. But our times are not roaring; at least not with giddy, boozy elation. Who can afford the performative nihilism of doing the foxtrot into oblivion? Wasted youth is a privilege, one that so many young people today cannot access; the planet is crumbling, right-wing extremism is on the rise, wealth disparity is worse than it has been in a century. (This we do have in common with Fitzgerald's time.) The party is very much over—or at least the record player is snagging and people have started to grab their coats. The biggest drinking trend among people under 30 these days is sobriety. If fashion is flirting with decadence—the recent runway shows glittered with grandiosity and razzle-dazzle—then at least this decadence is gimlet-eyed and somewhat sobering. There is a kind of winking meta-maximalism happening at the moment; a luxury that knows itself and its own limitations, knows how precarious it all is. Fashion is having riotous fun, but it is not blithe or indulgent. This is sartorial raging against a dying light; this is eating a chocolate cake at two in the morning because who can say when the sun will rise?

In entertainment, we are in a clear period of heady excess. The streaming revolution has led to an explosion of new stories with monumental production values—and opportunities for fresh faces seeking stardom. This may be a scary time to be a person, but it is an excellent time to be in Hollywood; there has never been a more diverse, textured, exciting array of projects and talent, with real money and energy fueling their development. How long can it last? No one can say, but for now, we should revel in it, and in the thrilling crop of newcomers that have bubbled up in this new era. So what if the party's dwindling, let's dance.

And so here is a portfolio reveling in willful decadence, about the velvet and brocade and baubles that you put on not as a distraction from the world, but in celebration of your potential within it, and in spite of it. These are not times to retreat into spartan asceticism. These are days for sparkle, for ruffles, for amulets and waistcoats. Fashion should feel a little bit gaudy, a little bit unstable, perhaps incautious and maybe even fleeting. Nothing is permanent; no decade roars forever. The new '20s are about not ignoring the dull distant crashes, but facing them head-on. In a party dress.

Sophia LILLIS
SEEN IN
Gretel & Hansel and It Chapter Two

UP NEXT
I Am Not Okay With This, on Netflix this month

Dream closet:
Hannah Montana's rotating walk-in closet 

Favorite destination: 
Ireland

Greatest indulgence: 
Sleep

Kelvin HARRISON JR.
SEEN IN
The Photograph and Waves

UP NEXT
The Trial of the Chicago 7, in October

Dream closet:
ASAP Rocky's

Favorite destination:
Budapest

Greatest indulgence:
Chocolate lava cake

Prized possession:
His grandfather's necklace

Jameela JAMIL
SEEN IN
The Good Place, on NBC

UP NEXT
Legendary, on HBO Max

Fantasy closet:
"Diane Keaton by day, Sophia Loren by night."

Favorite place:
"Rome. They allow people to age with dignity."

Greatest indulgence:
Microwaved sourdough with butter

Prized possession:
"I value my relationship more than money, success, and sourdough."

Diana SILVERS
SEEN IN
Booksmart and Ma

UP NEXT
Space Force, on Netflix

Fantasy closet:
Twiggy's

Favorite place:
Montana, but she'd like to move to London.

Greatest indulgence:
Mac 'n' cheese

Prized possession:
Her record collection

Mia GOTH
SEEN IN
Suspiria

STARS IN
Emma, in theaters now

Fantasy closet:
Jane Birkin's

Favorite place:
Brazil

Greatest indulgence:
"Pasta. If I'm sad, if I'm happy, if it's Sunday, I am eating pasta."

Prized possession:
"My apartment. I relish it."


Glen POWELL
SEEN IN
Set If Up and Hidden Figures

UP NEXT
Top Gun: Maverick, in June

Fantasy closet:
Butch Cassidy's or the Sundance Kid's

Greatest indulgence:
Barbecue

Prized possession:
A gift from Mr. Cruise himself. "An IWC Top Gun Fighter Weapons School watch, inscribed 'Your friend Tom/Mav.'"

Jessica BENWICK
SEEN IN
Underwater

UP NEXT
Sofia Coppola's On the Rocks, Godzilla vs. Kong in November, and The Matrix 4, next year

Fantasy closet:
Faye Wong's

Favorite place:
The Camino de Santiago trail, in Spain

Greatest indulgence:
"I'm a really easy person to buy a gift for, because you can just give me a massage."

Prized possession:
"My brain."

Charles MELTON
SEEN IN
Bad Boys for Life

STARS IN
Riverdale, on The CW

Fantasy closet:
Elvis Presley's

Favorite place:
Big Pine, California

Greatest indulgence:
Massages

Prized possession:
"My Chucks."

Amandla STENBERG
SEEN IN
The Hate U Give

UP NEXT
Damien Chazelle's The Eddy, on Netflix

Fantasy closet:
"I love shoes. I'd fill it with Dickies and Louis Vuitton flats!"

Favorite place:
Paris 

Greatest indulgence:
Love

Prized possession:
"My cat, Kumo. He's a tabby with giant green eyes."


David CORENSWET
SEEN IN
The Politician, on Netflix

UP NEXT
Another Ryan Murphy Netflix series, Hollywood, in May

Fantasy closet: 
Humphrey Bogart's

Favorite place:
Los Angeles

Greatest indulgence:
Flying lessons

Prized possession:
"The New York subway token that my dad kept as his good luck charm when he was an actor."