THE SHOPS OF VANITY FAIR

Even in This Springtime of the Year the Discriminating Shopper May Gamer a Harvest of Savings if She But Cho se, Here a Gown, and There a Hat or a Wrap or a Bit of Lingerie, Priced to Special Advantage

Note—This department is devoted, month by month, to selections of new things from the best shops. Vanity Fair will, on request, give the names and addresses of the shops where any articles shown here may be purchased; or, if more convenient for you, Vanity Fair will be glad to buy for you, on receipt of check or money order, any articles described or illustrated in this department

SUMMER frocks show pretty combinations of materials this season—fine crepes with trimmings of heavier eponge, plain and fancy crepes used in conjunction with each other, and numerous other happy contrasts. It is rare that one sees a gown made of a single material. However, that the exception proves the rule is aptly illustrated by the pretty frock, shown at the right on the upper part of this page, which is really a somewhat formal costume made entirely of chiffon taffeta. Cheruit is responsible for the model from which this costume was adapted, and it is a gown typical of the house of Cheruit; its absence of trimming and its new lines marking it at once. In white, black and the vivid shades, it would make an excellent afternoon frock, and in lighter colors it would be charming for a bridesmaid's costume. It is particularly smart this season for brides' and bridemaids' gowns to be simple. Some of the most recent Paris brides, as well as their attendants, have seemed almost austere in their demure, ankle-length frocks. That the line of the bride's gown and the color scheme of the attendants' frocks matter most in the wedding procession is realized by the cleverest designers, who subdue details and trimmings to these important considerations. The hat which accompanies the frock illustrated would also be delightful for the same purpose. It is a gracefully shaped leghorn model, faced with pink crepe and trimmed with two pink roses and a lace bow.

FOR outing or general morning wear the frock shown opposite this taffeta gown is very smart with its ball buttons which act as trimmings as well as fastenings. The frock itself is of white tub silk, which is most delightfully cool and always in good taste. This gown may be had either with white bone buttons, and in that case a white belt, or with buttons of dull blue or bright red and a belt to match. Collar and cuffs of embroidered organdy provide a charming finish. With it is worn a white hemp sailor trimmed with lime colored ribbon and a wreath of bright toned fruit.

Another trig little frock for morning wear is shown at the right in the lower group on page 73. It is of the new rice cloth, which is somewhat like a sheer crepe, prettily trimmed with blue, green or red eponge patterned with an old-fashioned design. The buttons repeat the color note. Real and very convenient pockets are oddly set into the skirt, but only simulated in the waist.

THE hat shown with this frock is a simple leghorn, uptilted at the side by a bandeau and trimmed with a wreath of tiny flowers and a bow of ribbon.

Fine white crepe is the material used in the gown pictured second in the lower group on page 73, which has an odd sash of braided white, or white and blue, silk braid. The buttons, the only other trimming, match the girdle, while the little chemisette of embroidered organdy shows one of the very new collars.

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Continued from page 73

The hat pictured with this gown is a quaint little model of hemp in leghorn color trimmed with moire ribbon and tiny button roses and wheat.

THE newest wash skirts, of which an attractive example appears third in the lower group on page 73, are of plain or Romanstriped eponge, and they are particularly smart when worn with white blouses and white sport coats. They may be had in either brilliant colors or soft shades. In one instance dull blue was striped with darker blue and showed touches of soft rose and black. The colors of the Roman stripes are really lovely, while the plaids are mostly dark, rich effects. The blouse shown with the striped skirt is of very sheer chiffon voile daintily trimmed in a new fashion with fine dotted voile.

One of the things most admired at Madame Paquin's recent exhibition was her collection of capes, and one of the most admired capes was the model shown at the lower left corner of page 73. It comes in gabardine in the most conservative tones, as well as such brilliant shades as tango and Empire green. This cape is lined with silk throughout and has a smart collar of white golfine and black velvet trimmed with silver buttons like the Paquin original.

The very lovely Japanese kimono shown at the upper left corner of page 74 is an exceptionally good purchase. It is sold by the importer himself and one thus escapes all but the single profit. It comes in China silk of various shades, beautifully hand-embroidered in self color or contrasting shades, and is lined with silk throughout.

IT IS always possible to procure at this season of the year lovely lingerie, at particularly advantageous prices if one is prompt to take advantage of the May sales. Some of the prettiest things, representing a number of the best values which the shops have to offer, are pictured on page 94. The lovely nightgown shown next to the kimono at the top of the page is of sheer batiste trimmed with Valenciennes lace and sheer medallions of embroidery.

Fine tucks are run with ribbon, and the whole is a garment of exceptional charm and fineness.

The second gown shown is very effective and surprisingly fine when one considers its modest price. Of nainsook, it is trimmed with an excellent quality of Valenciennes lace and insertions of very fine embroidery. It is trimmed alike back and front. A dainty French gown is illustrated at the lower left comer of the same page. It is made of the finest French nainsook, beautifully hand-embroidered and trimmed back and front with fine Valenciennes galloon. A gown of this type usually sells for a great deal more than the price at which it may now be had.

An excellent brassiere is the simple but fine one shown in the second sketch at the lower part of page 74. Since it is of fine nainsook both hand-made and hand-embroidered, the price is more than ordinarily reasonable. The pretty envelope drawers illustrated in the same sketch, are also of fine French nainsook, very sheer, hand-made and finely hand-scalloped.

The chemise illustrated third in the lower group on page 74 exemplifies the newer type of French underwear—simple and fine, with just a bit of lace and embroidery, to relieve its plainness. In this case the lace is very fine and the embroidery beautifully done. A graceful slip to wear with negligees or light frocks is illustrated at the lower right corner of the page. It is of accordion plaited chiffon with a flounce of very fine shadow lace which lace also trims the neck where it is in turn trimmed with chiffon roses. A very pretty negligee which amusingly reflects the tendencies of the spring fashions with its bustle effect and its lace ruffles, is shown at the upper right comer of page 74. It is made of crepe de Chine caught up under soft frills of shadow lace and is prettily trimmed with rosebuds. It may be had, like the slip, in pink, blue and white, and other colors may be ordered, if desired.

NECK-FIXINGS this spring are a novel and attractive feature of the mode. On this page are pictured several smart guimpes and one of the new Gladstone collars, all most attractively priced. The collar, shown at the upper left corner, is made of organdy finely hemstitched. To the left at the middle of the page is a guimpe of ecru batiste, plain as to the collar, but finely embroidered at the front. It has net sides and back and is held in place by an elastic at the waist. Next to it is a guimpe of net, tucked and hand-embroidered and trimmed with lace. It extends to the waist front and back, and it, too, has an elastic at the bottom. The organdy guimpe pictured at the lower right corner of the page is severely simple but most effective. Its Gladstone collar is boned and hemstitched. Guimpes of this kind give a dainty and becoming touch to a gown of silk or of one of the heavier cotton textures.

A pretty expression of the vogue of color is the guimpe edged with a narrow piping

of tinted batiste. These little pipings appear in old blue, rose, orange, violet, and other soft and vivid colors.