SEEN IN THE SHOPS

Robert Lloyd Trevor

Men's Clothes, and Other Necessaries of Masculine Attire

THE worst thing that can be said about dancing is that it makes one abominably hot and sticky. For years men have been dancing in clothes rather less fitted to the purpose than a suit of armor is fitted for a swimming race. Our ball rooms have, in consequence, been filled with a lot of uncomfortable beings whose sole idea has been to get through with the ordeal as quickly as possible, so that they might divest themselves of their apparel, and regain their normal temperature.

The present dance fever has done many good things, not the least of which has been to break the shackles of convention to meet the demands of comfort. We have seen as a result the passing, to a large extent, of the old-fashioned stifffronted shirt. It has been supplanted by shirts particularly well suited to dancing. Two types of these are illustrated here: one (in the picture containing the black waistcoat) is of silk, with what is known as a mushroom tucked front; the other (just above the socks) is of linen with a plaited bosom.

There is much to be said in favor of the silk shirt. It is extremely light and cool. On the other hand, it may be claimed by some that silk shirts are becoming vulgar, because so many people are wearing them. It is not for me to ques tion this statement. People who feel that way towards the silk shirt need not wear it. Neither are they. obliged to keep to the old stiff kind, made of a linen so heavy that it would be a splendid substitute for sail-cloth. The shirt makers have very cleverly invented a thin linen shirt, with a soft, plaited front, which is almost as cool as the silk variety, and possesses the agreeable quality of being less transparent and clinging.

SHIRTS are not the only articles which have been influenced by the prevalence of the dance. Waistcoats are also being made more supple and light in weight. Of the two shown on this page, the black one represents an excellent type for use with the dinner jacket. It is made of thin silk, and its buttons, in accordance with the latest sartorial idea, are covered with the same material. The other waistcoat is absolutely new, having been designed by one of our foremost waistcoat tailors especially for Mr. Vernon Castle. Mr. Castle, it may be remembered, also dances. This waistcoat is named after him, and will be for sale in certain shops at about the time this article appears.

To increase the comfort of the two extremities which are most useful in hesitating, the boot makers have evolved, a patent-leather lace shoe, which is i1lustrated below. This is also endorsed by Mr. Castle. It has all the advantages of the pump without its great disadvantage; that is to say, it is extremely pliable, light and cool, yet it will not slip off the heel. This last is an important feature, because the special socks for dancing, some of which are shown on page 65, are so thin in texture that ill-fitting pumps would soon reduce them to shreds. A careful look at these socks, by the way, will reveal the fact that they are so thin that one can see through to the "clock" on the other side.

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Although summer is supposed to be dry, it is well within the bounds of possibility that some rain will fall during the coming months. For the benefit of those cautious souls who prefer to walk about in dry clothes, one of our best sporting outfitters has invented the rain coat shown on page 65. Look at it closely, and you will see, near the bottom of it, two straps. Each strap can be buttoned around one leg, at the knee. The straps serve to keep the rain coat in its proper place in spite of the most blustering winds.

People who golf will find on page 65 and also on this page several things to interest them. Men have often said to me. almost with tears in their eyes, "Say, old man, what sort of a shirt can I play golf in? 1 have tried a thousand kinds and they are really too awful to think of. What is a good sort to get?"

To all the unhappy golfers in America who are asking the same question, I strongly recommend the sort of shirt illustrated on page 65. It is made of light, absorbent French flannel, guaranteed not to shrink when washed, and is worn with a detachable collar. It is altogether a most presentable looking shirt, and may be obtained in many colors, and with many combinations of stripes.

It is claimed for the golfing shoes illustrated on page 65 that they possess the four qualities which are essential for a golf shoe; they are strong, supple, waterproof, and will not slip on the grass.

There is a great deal of leeway in the sort of hat the golfer may wear with propriety. Any casual visitor to the links can see that at a glance. There are hats made of duck, with or without a green lining; there are big, fuzzy, so-called "English" caps; there are the ever present old felt hats of the panhandler species, and on page 65 we have one made of waterproof, unshrinkable tweed. The advantages of this hat are that it looks well, will keep its shape, and may be worn without a blush on motor tours.

Men in this country are coming more and more to use knickerbockers for golfing, rather than an old pair of long trousers. This means, of course, that they must wear long stockings, of which, until pretty recently, there has been a somewhat poor assortment in America. The supply, however, is increasing, and while it is now possible to buy good ones at almost any haberdasher's, the sporting outfitters still show the best kinds. We illustrate here two of the newest patterns. They are made of heavy, Scotch wool, with neatly colored tops, and wear forever. To the left of these stockings is a pair of colored socks made by one of our best sock makers. They are intended to be worn at tennis, and as they are made in patterns embodying almost every hue known to the dyer's art, it can safely be said that they will tend to brighten up the dullest match. They are really very practical, as they are of soft, absorbent wool, and not likely to wrinkle.

The glove depicted here is a new invention for hot weather golf. The palm is made of leather, while the back consists of a strong thread mesh, which serves to keep the hand cool.

Vanity Fair will gladly furnish the addresses of shops where articles herein described may be procured. For the convenience of those readers who live out of town, or who for any other reason are unable to reach the stores, Vanity Fair's expert shoppers stand ready to buy for them, anything they desire.