VANITY FAIR

October 2005

No. 542

ON YANITYFAIR.COM THIS MONTH:

•PARIS HILTON—THE OUTTAKES!

•A TRIBUTE TO V.F.'S MARJORIE WILLIAMS •DOROTHY PARKER JOINS THE V.F. ROUNDTABLE

FEATURES

280 THE INESCAPABLE PARIS Paris Hilton has earned multi-media fame as a paparazzi-luring, nightclub-hopping, sex-tape-scandal-ensnared hotel heiress on the loose. What more is there to say? Plenty, as Krista Smith discovers: with her global branding empire and her Greek-shipping-heir fiance, Hilton just might be doing the unexpected—growing up. Photographs by Mario Testino.

290 WATERGATE'S LAST CHAPTERVanity Fair's revelation of the long-concealed identity of "Deep Throat" caught the secret's guardians by surprise. Recalling a tense day of decision as he, Bob Woodward, and the Washington Post top brass debated their response, Carl Bernstein explores the very different calculus of investigating scandal today.

298 THE AUSTRIAN CONNECTION Jonas Karlsson and Jeremy Eichler spotlight Franz Welser-Most, the Cleveland Orchestra's refreshingly un-Olympian music director.

300 WILD ABOUT HARRY'S Mark Birley's clubs have long been the aristocratic cornerstones of London nightlife, as much for their old-world perfectionism as for their exclusivity. But now, Vicky Ward reports, the future of "the jewel in the crown," Harry's Bar, is threatened by a clash of civilizations between Birley and his American tycoon partner, James Sherwood.

306 KID CROSBY Kurt Markus and Brett Forrest spotlight Sidney Crosby, whose straight shot from high school to the N.H.L. is bringing hope to hockey fans.

308 THE HOUSE THAT ESTEE BUILT She began selling jars of homemade face cream in the 1930s. By the time she died, in April 2004, Estee Lauder had conquered the beauty business, become a major philanthropist, and founded a talented, passionate family dynasty. Talking to those who knew her best, Bob Colacello recalls Lauder's irresistible force, her outrageous candor, and her love of cooking—wearing a hat, purse, and makeup, naturally.

FOR DETAILS, SEE CREDITS PAGE

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316 "ABSOLUTELY EXCESSIVE!" Oracle C.E.O. Larry Ellison knows it's all over-the-top: the private Japanese-style village, the America's Cup sailing team, the boat Rising Sun—which, at 454 feet, is now the longest privately owned yacht in the world. But, Matthew Symonds reveals, the Silicon Valley power player has struggled to keep pace with his own epic vision. Exclusive photographs by Jonathan Becker.

FANFAIR

133 31 DAYS IN THE LIFE OF THE CULTURE Breezy days—The Standard Miami gets set to open. Elissa Schappell reviews Justine Levy's latest. Emily Poenisch on Georgina Brandolini; David Kamp celebrates Union Square Cafe; Kevin Sessums on Jed Johnson. Punch Hutton sits in the good seats. Betsy Bloomingdale remembers William Haines. Anne Fulenwider satisfies her George curiosity; Edward Helmore browses the Frieze Art Fair; Christine Muhlke accessorizes with Stacey Lapidus. John Brodie reads Ron Hogan; Bruce Handy reviews The Squid and the Whale and Good Night. And, Good Luck. Victoria Mather buys the hotel. Lisa Eisner gets into Lucha Va Voom; Aaron Gell on girl bands; A. M. Homes on L.A.'s comic-book exhibition. Eve Epstein meets Olivia Chantecaille; My Stuff—Marc Newson; Dany Levy on foot guru Bastien Gonzalez.

COLUMNS

164 TRU GRIT Examining two Truman Capote biopics headed for theaters, James Wolcott shows how four murders led to a single masterpiece—In Cold Blood—that revealed both the depth of Capote's talent and the conflicts of his heart. Photographs by Brigitte Lacombe.

182 SCANDAL BY THE BOOK Dominick Dunne takes his diary to London this month, with two missions: interview Lord Conrad and Lady Barbara Black and watch the pulping of the controversial novel that had Lily Safra threatening legal action. Both led to surprise meetings, amid a whirl of parties. Photograph by Jason Bell.

194 BYE, BYE, BROADSHEET In a fevered circulation chase, England's venerable broadsheets have been shrinking to tabloid size on the assumption that small sells. But with breakfast-table reading going the way of five-o'clock cocktails, Michael Wolff wonders whether quality newspapers can keep from disappearing altogether. Portraits by Jillian Edelstein.

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208 A MATTER OF LIFE AND DEATH Marjorie Williams wrote indelible, acid-tipped portraits of Washington's power figures. But in 2001, after a lump in her abdomen turned into a death sentence (liver cancer, six months), she began documenting the strengths and foibles of a new subject—herself—as she fought for a miracle: three more years with her husband and young children.

228 WONDERFUL WORLD A century ago, Joseph Pulitzer's New York World was a nickel ticket to a colorful realm of adventure, progress, and entertainment, outselling all its rivals. An excerpt from the new book by Nicholson Baker and his wife, Margaret Brentano, who rescued what may be the last remaining set of original newspapers, offers a glimpse of its glories.

SPECIAL REPORT

243 THE NEW ESTABLISHMENT 2005 In VF's 11th annual ranking of the 50 most powerful leaders of the Information Age, the top spot has been captured by a new generation. By the numbers and the lowdown, find out how Wal-Mart's H. Lee Scott Jr., News Corp.'s Rupert Murdoch, and Apple's Steve Jobs stack up against the guys at Google. Photo composite by Michael Elins.

VANITIES

265 SWEET MELISSA George Wayne shoots the s#%t with potty-mouthed family fave Bob Saget. David Kamp and Peter Richmond present the Pro Football Snob's Dictionary, Vol. 2. Intelligence Report: America at War, by Adam Leff and Richard Rushfield.

ET CETERA

80 EDITOR'S LETTER

96 CONTRIBUTORS

110 LETTERS Mixed About Martha

162 PLANETARIUM Libra relief

344 CREDITS

346 PROUST QUESTIONNAIRE Donald Sutherland

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