THE SHOPS OF VANITY FAIR

The Seasons Are Telescoped One upon Another, and in February Come the Garments of June

FEBRUARY was once considered "between seasons" — a period when one bought little, and saved one's energies for a plunge into spring shopping. Nowadays, this is no longer true— we do not live in an age of seasons. To be sure, fashion recognizes in a general way two seasons— summer and winter— and prepares for them spring and fall. It is impossible, however, to define these periods, so much depends on what sort of weather we have, and on plans of travel. The shops must, therefore, be prepared at all times for all contingencies. So it is that one season creeps upon another, and we are no sooner equipped for winter than, behold, here and there appear tempting signs of spring— a lingerie blouse or a taffeta frock, a spring coat, or a hat of straw.

THE gown shown on this page, for example, is one of the more than ordinarily good values that are occasionally offered early in the season. It is of taffeta of exceptionally good quality, and the model is a smart one. It has the fashionable fulness at the side of the skirt, and a becoming waist, with guimpe of net and lace. A bit of poplin in Paisley design appears as a vest, and tones in with the girdle of contrasting color. The sleeves give the desired drooping effect, but do not make the shoulders look narrow.

Of the two simple blouses sketched at the lower part of the page, the one at the left is of a lovely salmon-colored crepe de Chine, with a vest of white crepe de Chine, finely hemstitched, and with ruffles of soft white chiffon at wrists and neck. It comes also in other beautiful color combinations.

The second blouse is very pretty indeed. It is made of crêpe de Chine in a new shade of yellow, and in other colors. The vest is of white net stitched at the edges in black, and the collar and cuffs are of fine shadow lace. The shoulder line and the arrangement of the tucks tend to make this an extremely becoming blouse.

There is a peculiar excellence in the two new wash skirts which are shown at the top of page 66, for while they follow the style without being in any way extreme, they are not impossible to launder — a point which is sometimes quite overlooked in the designing of wash skirts. The model, shown at the left, comes in plain linen, linen crash, black and white checked linen, and newest of all, cotton duvetyn, which is a surprisingly good imitation of the silk and wool material of this name. It is trimmed with pearl buttons and two patch pockets. The belt has a vest-like finish that is decidedly attractive.

Note—This department is devoted, month by month, to a selection of new things from the best shops. Vanity Fair will, on request, give the names and addresses of the shops where any articles shown here may be purchased; or, if more convenient for you, Vanity Fair will be glad to buy for you, on receipt of check or money order, any articles described or illustrated in this department.

The waist which is worn with this skirt is one of the cool, sheer blouses that are admirable for southern wear. It is made of fine marquisette, with cuffs, revers, and collar of dotted marquisette, and its only trimming is the soft plaitings of net which follow the edges of cuffs and revers. The low shoulder line and all of the seams are accentuated by fine beading.

THEwash skirt,shownat therightof page 66, is developed in a lovely, crepe-striped ratine— a novelty this season. The model is very simple and merely suggests the double tunic.

It is slightly more formal than the first skirt, and better suited to general morning wear than to sports. With this second skirt is worn quite the newest thing in sheer blouses— one of Georgette crepe. This material is soft and really nearer akin to chiffon than cr£pe, but it has a stronger body than chiffon, which leads one to believe the assertion that it launders beautifully. This model comes in white and the loveliest colors.

The much abused term " Deauville" has been tacked to everything conceivable in the way of coats, but the name is really appropriately used for the corduroy wraps being shown here this season. These are true to their foreign prototype in every detail, even to the fur collar. Their popularity in America is yet to be decided, but, since fashionable women the world over dress very much alike, furs in summer are by no means unknown here, although our seashore climate does not, as does that of the Continent,demand them, and themountains are the one logical place for their use. At any rate, for a winter in the south, these fur-trimmed coats are just the thing.

AT THE left below is shown a charming, loose model in white corduroy, with a half collar of sable-dyed squirrel. It may also be had in colors. Like its French predecessor, it does not button— the newest point about French coats is that they do not button. A belt holds this one together. Corduroy, of course, cleans beautifully; in white it washes, also, and the fact that the coat is unlined, and the fur collar easily removed, makes it very practical. With this coat is illustrated a very smart hat. It is made of Milan straw, modeled in a well-liked mannish style. The brim is soft with a slight roll all around, but it may be rolled high at any angle that is becoming. A printed, Roman band adds to its effectiveness. This chic hat, which is made of the very best grade of straw, is most moderately priced.

The coat shown at the lower right is equally good for motoring, traveling, and general wear. Of suede cloth in the lovely, warm brown tone usually associated with leathers, it actually gives the effect of suède. Its collar may be worn open or closed, and it has deep pockets. The back hangs with the desired fulness, but is not extreme. It is lined with soft satin to match, and is trimmed with self-covered, rather large buttons.

The hat which accompanies this coat in the sketch is admirable for steamer wear.

It is a short-brimmed affair, even shorter than it appears in the illustration, made of Milan braid in various colors, and it is trimmed with a matching band of the braid.

Fitting low on the head, it is becoming to any one who can wear a straight-brimmed hat. It may be had in various colors.

The bathing suit of youthful design shown in the middle of the page expresses the fashionable suspender idea. It has a number of delightful possibilities. It comes in all-black satin, or with the blouse of fancy messaline in a plaid effect or a plain color. The pockets are genuine and quite businesslike. Taken as a whole it is a smart and most satisfactory garment.