TOUCHES THAT TELL

To Win Color from a Scarf and Contrast from a Flower Is the Refinement of Art in Dress

A YOUNG girl who yearns for the picturesque may now attire herself in a coat of leopard skin, a muff of this savage pelt, and a jaunty toque of the same, carrying aloft a still, dark brown aigrette. The effect is bizarre, but becoming to a youthful face. Youth indeed, takes many many liberties with the mode. Though fashion dictates the flat coiffure and would preserve religiously the contour of the head, one sees at the debutantes' dances young girls with their pretty hair piled high, or gracefully coiled somewhat after the fashion adopted by Elsie Ferguson, who is now playing the "The Strange Woman." Of hair ornaments, however, one sees more in the shops than on the heads of fashionable women.

Ever and anon we gasp at the sophistication of the young girl of the present generation. It is truly startling to the individual of old-fashioned convictions to note that many debutantes, conservatively brought up, are using rouge, lip salve, and powder, especially at night. These astute young people will tell you that with the vivid evening gowns now in vogue they must have color in their cheeks, and with few of them is it natural, for they never dare eat an entire meal lest their weight exceed one hundred and eighteen, and they lose that much-loved suppleness and slenderness of figure.

The pale, diaphanous tulle draperies of the new evening bodices, which are cut extraordinarily low in both back and front, are frequently relieved by one or more dark velvet flowers. A black and yellow velvet calla-lily studded with rhinestones, or a cluster of deep red or purple velvet roses is very fetching when caught carelessly at the waist of a white tulle or chiffon bodice. Flowers now ornament many of the details of the toilette. Satin or tulle bows for slippers have been supplanted by little satin blossoms which are usually of the same color as the slippers themselves.

The scarf is an adjunct to the toilette with which a woman who is naturally graceful may achieve indescribably charming results. By permitting it to hang long she apparently adds inches to her stature, or she may detract years from her age by draping it just so about her shoulders. Tulle scarfs, fragile as cobwebs, ethereal as mist, are a pretty departure from the silk scarfs so many women wear. Often they are of a lovely pink tone and though, of course, they give no protection, they serve as a rose setting for the face, which is vastly becoming and lends a fascinating flush of color. They are carried, folded, in the opera bag, and are thrown about the shoulders after the removal of the heavy wrap at the theatre, opera, or the the dansant.

Quaintness is a persistent note in evening garb. Especially in the wrap does this idea find expression. It is Premet who has fashioned the delightful, hooded affair shown in the center column. It is made of golden brown taffeta backed with rose. The lower edge is turned up to show the gaily toned lining. This wrap was worn by a dark-haired girl, over a dress of old-blue taffeta, and was most charming.

Although ostracized from the field of evening wraps, Japanese and Chinese robes are still much in demand for house wear. For tea in her boudoir, one smart woman dons a complete costume, àla Chinoise, embroidered in dark, rich purple. Stays are discarded and, lounging luxuriously, she enjoys a brief chat with one or more of her intimates before putting on formal dinner clothes.

Milady's hand-bags increase in number and become more varied in shape and material. If, however, only one is to be included among the necessary accessories, a bag of black velvet lined with orange or cerise plush is a wise selection. This bag may be carried for all occasions after midday, and is, therefore, an economy.

White velvet hats are a welcome change from the omnipresent black velvet which has been the hat of the season. While the frame of white is not so becoming to all faces as that of black, the black hat is now too often seen to appeal to those who desire to be regarded as being leaders, rather than followers, in matters of the mode.

The sautoir— the narrow black moire ribbon fixed with a plain or jeweled slide, with a hook from which depends the lorgnon, or the locket, or even the jeweled or enameled watch — still retains its popularity, but to be fashionable this season, it must bring the pendant only to the bust-line. It gives a pretty touch to the costume, and the line of black accents the delicate fragility of the neck laces or tulle. Jewelers are offering, as a pretty variation of the moire ribbon, a fine, black silk cord for the pendant.