THE SHOPS OF VANITY FAIR

Ushered In by the Autumn Mode, Enter Full, Flaring Skirts, and Legions of Black Velvet Hats

Note.—This department is devoted, month by month, to selections of new things from the best shops. Vanity Fair will, on request, give the names and addresses of the shops where any articles shown here may be purchased; or, if more convenient for you, Vanity Fair will be glad to buy for you, on receipt of check or money order, any articles described or illustrated in this department

FOR early autumn wear the shops are showing most attractive frocks, charming new blouses, hats galore, and just a sprinkling of suits, for the latter, when all is said, are not the first requisite of the new wardrobe. One-piece frocks are mostly of serge, the ever-reliable, but just a few here and there are made of other materials, such as broadcloth, of which there is promised a revival this winter. Particularly attractive models are shown which are quite new without being at all extreme. For a practical dress, of which much wear is expected, it is always wiser to choose a model which is not too pronounced in type, as one is less likely to tire of it.

THE very simple gown with braid-embroidered sash, shown at the upper left corner of page 80, has little to relieve its severity, and for this reason is very smart. The black braiding which trims it is enlivened with an effective touch of silver thread. The very full tunic of this genre is not at all commonplace, and therefore it is good style. The plaited black satin underskirt is a concession to the fuller skirts that, it is now conceded, we are to have this winter. Black bone buttons are in keeping with the character of the frock, and the pretty white satin collar makes it most becoming.

Large hats will be more generally worn this autumn than for some time. The black velvet hat which tops this costume is a charming example of the type of rather large, simple hat that is becoming to so many people. The crown, which slants slightly from one side to the other, and the brim, higher on one side than the other, give it character. White grosgrain ribbon encircles the crown and crosses at one side.

THE gown pictured at the bottom of page 80 is new in many ways. The skirt is one of the first plaited models to be shown, a forerunner, it seems, of many to follow. The coat, in which midnight blue serge is combined with black satin, is new and undeniably attractive. The chemisette is of fine white handkerchief linen daintily braid-embroidered in Wall of Troy design. Little scarlet buttons and an edge of black satin on the collar trim the chemisette.

A noticeable feature is the sash of black satin which serves as the lower portion of the waist, and, crossing the hips, ties in the back, seeming to hold the back tab in place. The black velvet sailor worn with this gown shows ingenuity in its slashed brim. Any number of models have the brims slashed across the front, but it is seldom that any two are alike, so many are the different angles at which they are cut. White moire ribbon trims this sailor and holds in place the smart ostrich quill which follows the line of the brim across the front.

One of the prettiest suits that has been seen so far this autumn is illustrated at the upper right corner of page 80. It is made of a beautiful quality of dark blue gabardine and has an entirely new collar and the loose lines which one associates with Paul Poiret's models. This is an exact copy of a Poiret suit. It has a black velvet collar and black velvet cuffs, and fastens with very odd, black, glazed bone buttons that are well adapted to the general style of the model.

THE skirt is a simple, straight one, rather fuller than those of last season, having a slightly raised waist-line. The Fifth Avenue shop carrying this suit shows it in blue or Russian green in sizes for girls and young women, but will take orders at the same price for larger sizes.

In a season when hats with mushroom brims are few and far between, the occasional one that is seen has a refreshing air of originality. The model illustrated with the suit just described is a small velvet hat, in a dark blue shade called "corbeau," which is said by some millinery authorities to be smarter than all black, just as tête de negre was smarter than black last season. An antique silver ribbon binds the brim and ties in one of the new, long, narrow bows right in front, directly on the edge of the brim. A shape of this sort is unusually becoming to most faces, the concave brim of the dark velvet shading the face prettily.

A DAINTY dancing frock is illustrated at the bottom of page 79. It may be had with the skirt of plaited chiffon in white or in a light, evening shade. Very fine white lace of the shadow variety cascades effectively from the shoulders down to knee length or a little lower on the skirt. The large taffeta bow of bright ribbon which finishes the girdle becomes an actual trimming because of its colorings, which contrast beautifully with the soft tone of the chiffon. A bouquet of old-fashioned garden flowers catches the fulness of the bodice in front, and gives just the pretty contrast of colors needed.

Hats of tricorn type will be more extensively worn this season than for several seasons past, but not all of them will be as large as the one illustrated at the top of page 79. This charming little velvet hat is quite new in shape. The edges of the brim do not turn up to the top of the crown, but come about half way up, and where they meet the crown are three tiny grosgrain ribbon bows, the only vestige of trimming the hat possesses. Another smart tricorn is shown at the lower right corner of page 79. It has a sharply upturning brim, bound in antique silver braid. An odd silver rose at one side is its only trimming. With this hat is illustrated one of the newest ideas in neckwear, a softly plaited ruche of organdy with picot edges. The effect is that of a Pierrot ruff, and is most attractive with frocks of serge, crepe de Chine or similar fabrics. The frill and cuffs to match cost $2.50 at a smart shop.

The very chic boat-shaped turban pictured at the lower left corner of page 79, is of black velvet with black pheasant fantaisies around the upper edge of the brim, crossing in back and front.

THE new autumn waists, while they exhibit no startling change in style, display interesting details such as new materials, and new types of collars and cuffs. The very attractive model pictured at the top of this page may be had made of white or black lace, in the case of white lace over flesh color chiffon, and in the case of black lace over white chiffon. It has a pretty collar of white satin and a little half belt of black taffeta. The quality of the lace is surprisingly good, and the design of the back with its soft plaits of the crepe and its peplum is unusually pretty. A narrow black satin tie finishes the neck. The hat of "corbeau" blue velvet, worn with it, has the brim slashed, and is trimmed with a pheasant fantaisie in black. Like all of the hats described, it may be ordered at the same price in black or in other fashionable colors.

(Continued on page 86)

(Continued from page 80)

DARK blue chiffon is the material used in the very attractive blouse shown at the upper left corner of this page. The lining is of white chiffon, the collar and cuffs of soft crepe Française, a new material that has the sheerness of organdy, and the weave of crepe. The tiny collar that shows at the back is of taffeta in a color which matches the chiffon. The prettiest feature of the blouse, the crossing taffeta straps which start from under the collar, is new, and the charming bead embroidery in delicate colors which decorates them gives the waist a daintiness that is most effective. This blouse comes also in flesh color chiffon with straps of flesh color taffeta embroidered in white beadwork, and a white crepe collar. In this coloring it makes a charming luncheon blouse, and the price is more than ordinarily reasonable.

TURBANS are always smart, and are possibly the hat most suited to winter. The one shown with the blouse is a small, boat-shaped model that fits well on the head, and has an odd, but very effective, trimming of two long bows. The one on the right side of the hat is white and the one on the left side black.

There is seldom a season when a few boat-shaped turbans do not make their appearance. Particularly is this true of autumn, for when all is said and done small hats are far more comfortable for winter, and one can use to good effect with them such smart veilings that it is no wonder many women prefer them. However, hats this season are shown in almost endless variety so that one can surely choose a becoming shape. To be sure, the majority are either quite large or quite small, but in between are such models as the one shown with the suit at the upper right corner of page 80.

THE blouse pictured at the upper right corner of this page shows one of the new cape effects that are now so very smart. The waist itself is of chiffon while the cape and straps, which seem to hold it on, are of silk crepe matching the chiffon in color. The collar like the cuffs is of very fine soft white satin.

A PRETTY restaurant or dinner gown is shown by one of the best shops in sizes for young women, but it may be ordered in larger sizes. It may be had in the black and white combination pictured at the middle of this page or in all black. In the model shown, white satin is veiled by a long black silk net tunic, so nearly as long as the skirt that it is new in effect. Two rows of Chantilly lace insertion trim it and match the upper part of the waist and sleeves. The sleeves are made entirely of Chantilly lace in an effective pattern. The girdle, like the lower portion of the bodice, is of black satin, trimmed with odd buttons of black with embossed white beads, which give them a Wedgwood effect. An airy black silk net bow is caught in back by a black velvet rose.

Vanity Fair mill buy for you any of the articles described herein, or will tell you the names of the shops at which they may be purchased. At the top of page 80 you will find a note explaining the advantages of this service.