SPARKLING FORM

France vs. California in the battle of the bubbles

Wine

JOEL L. FLEISHMAN

When sipped, champagne imparts a measure of ebullience to life's joys. When it is tasted in quantity, however, the malic, tartaric, and citric acids which give a zingy crispness to a glass or two of sparkler are guaranteed to make anyone's teeth feel as if they had been sandpapered. But raw teeth were a worthwhile trade-off when we recently tasted sixty wines, divided into five flights of twelve wines each, representing the best of France and California.

The California flight offered convincing evidence that these vintners are succeeding ever more mightily in the art of making sparkling wine. The best was Mumm Cuvee Napa Brut Prestige ($15), which gentles the palate with a crisp mousse, and satisfies the taste buds with an almost French balance of rich fruit flavors. Close behind it was the 1985 S. Anderson Blanc de Noirs ($20), which surely seals that winery's claim to a place in California's sparkling-wine firmament. The always reliable Chandon Blanc de Noirs ($13) followed in third place. The 1983 Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs ($21) and the 1985 Iron Horse Blanc de Noirs ($19) were also excellent.

The Billecart-Salmon Brut ($23) was the star of the nonvintage French champagnes. Its complex flavors are perfectly framed in dark, toasty dryness. A short pace behind was the Louis Roederer Brut Premier ($21), with such an abundance of fruit flavors it is almost sweet, a rare characteristic in champagne. The Taittinger Brut La Frangaise ($26) is heralded by an engaging bouquet of yeasty caramel. Its mousse explodes in perfectly balanced spicy essences of citrus and yeast, with a lovely finish of lemon. The Lanson Black Label ($21) is restrained and finely balanced.

Four 1982s towered over the vintage champagnes. The elegant Pommery Brut ($35) begins with a gentle nose of yeast, while its lingering finish of lemon and toastiness bespeaks perfection in champagne. The delicate bouquet of the Billecart-Salmon Brut N.F. ($43) is of fragrant lemon and pungent yeast, and its lively mousse proceeds to a balance of citrus, yeast, and toastiness. The Charles Heidsieck Brut ($32) is a bit less intense, compensating in elegance for what it lacks in exuberance. Its mousse is absolutely wonderful, however, and its fruit essences are in harmonious equilibrium. The Lanson Brut ($33) manifests a little more pungent yeast to both the nose and the mouth, and its lasting finish cannot fail to enchant. While all four of these vintage champagnes give pleasure now, they will peak seven to ten years after their vintage date.

Among the superpremiums, the 1981 Lanson 225th Anniversary Cuv6e ($85) was the standout. From the nose through the mouth to the finish, it dazzles with sheer power, depth, and richness. The 1979 Champagne Salon Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs ($100) exhibits elegant balance rather than intensity. The Salon vineyard has only recently chosen to enter the American market in a visible way, but has already caught the attention of serious champagne lovers, or at least of those who can foot the bill. The 1983 Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs ($60) is almost as impressive, with an austere, dry nose and citrusyeast flavors. The Perrier-Jouet Fleur de Champagne ($65), the Flower Bottle, is always one of the loveliest superpremiums, and 1982 is no exception, with a firm frame of dry toastiness encompassing strong yeast and citrus flavors. The Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay has long been one of my favorites. The 1981 vintage ($82) is a beauty, with a pronounced nose of apple blossoms and a magnificent panoply of subtle fruit and dry yeasty flavors. The 1982 Dorn Perignon ($80) is perhaps not as delicate as the Taittinger, although I found it equally satisfying, with a spicy nose, a wonderfully dry mousse, full flavors of apples and lemon, and a gloriously dry lemon finish. The 1982 Pol Roger Blanc de Chardonnay is the best value of the expensive champagnes, at $41. Its lively mousse, rich citrus flavors, and toasty finish make for a champagne of great breed and appeal.

Among the roses, the BillecartSalmon Brut Rose ($43) was glorious, with its robust fruity flavors dried by toastiness. The Pommery Rose ($38) will appeal to those who prefer invigorating, fresh fruit flavors against only a background of pungent yeast. The 1982 Charles Heidsieck Rose ($40) blends the best elements of the Pommery and the Billecart-Salmon, with a bit of yeastiness that tends to be overcome by powerful citrus flavors. The 1982 Perrier-Jouet Fleur de Champagne Rose ($65) has gentler flavors, with only a slight edge of pungent yeast softened by a decided toastiness. Finally, the most expensive rose is the 1981 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, at $93. It has a beautiful bounty of rich lemon and apple flavors in perfect balance—very elegant and very dry.